When in Milan, don’t skip the aperitivo tradition, a drink and a light meal at the end of the day as a prelude to dinner. It is meant to whet one’s appetite. Between 7pm and 9pm, Italians come together over a glass of wine or cocktail. A drink order comes with finger foods. In some bars, plenty of finger foods. Aperitivo is not supposed to replace dinner, but who’s going to object when it does?